Can Feminists Like Fashion?

photo of feminist fashion catwalk pictures photos pics
I’m not a fashionista to say the least. If it’s comfortable, I wear it. But I do really love fashion. I like runway shows and I’m astounded by how designers can come up with these moving pieces of wearable art. But with fashion comes models, and with models come body issues. Ms. magazine’s January issues takes a look at whether or not feminists are “allowed” to like fashion in their article “If The Clothes Fit: A Feminist Take On Fashion”. They argue that fashion has been both an advancement for women (Coco Chanel anyone?) and a “weapon of restraint” (Kate Moss’ figure).

The Ms. article talks a lot about how fashion was used to show independence, such as in New York City, when women garment workers in the early 20th century wore hats to signify that they were earning their own money, and thus financially independent. In the 1980s, women adopted a male style of dress (ties, tailored skirt suits, shoulder pads) in an attempt to be respected by their male counterparts in the business world. Not to mention Carol Moseley Braun, the first African-American woman elected to the U.S. Senate, who (gasp!) wore a pantsuit on the Senate floor in 1993, ending the Senate’s age-long ban on women wearing slacks there. (Yes, in 1993 there was a ban on women wearing pants in the Senate.) The other side of the coin is that fashion puts a lot of pressure on women to be ridiculously thin …

… and conveys the idea that they are worth the same amount that they are willing to spend on a pair of shoes. Is a high heel any better because the bottom of it is red? Are you any happier because it’s sitting in your closet? Do you think about it day in and day out, knowing that that particular shoe is making a world of difference in your life? Probably not, but people may think more highly of you, so why not be a little short on rent this month to buy the Jimmy Choo?

Said Vogue editor Anna Wintour in her February 2008 editor’s letter wrote:

“The notion that a contemporary woman must look mannish in order to be taken seriously as a seeker of power is frankly dismaying. How has our country come to this?…This is America, not Saudi Arabia.”

This can be construed as a very feminist point of view. One could also fault Wintour for pushing those unrealistic ideals as well as expecting us normal folks to measure up to her – when she has a $250,000 clothing allowance as part of her perk salary at Vogue. Which yes, most of us are extremely jealous of.

See, even “not caring” too much about fashion,I fall victim to it. I can’t tell you the last time I wore heels that weren’t boots or any piece of clothing that made me uncomfortable just because it looked good. I don’t have any designer labels (unless they were given to me by my fashion-forward friends as charity) but I would still kill to have that $250,000 perk to go buy this amazing Marchesa dress I saw. It’s a sickness, right?

So, can a feminist love fashion? Absolutely! Does it make her any less feminist? Well, no. Not at all, actually. We like what we like because it tickles a part of our brain, and nursing and nurturing our own interests and growing them in a way that makes us happy is extremely feminist – especially if we’re doing it for ourselves and no one else.



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Corinne Day: Pioneer of Natural Beauty in Fashion Photography

photo of model kate moss posing with fashion photographer corinne day, who died last week of a brain tumor

In the 1990s, photographer Corinne Day strove to offer an alternative to the gloss and excess of the fashion of the previous decade. Day took natural, black and white photographs, including the now-iconic image of a young Kate Moss wearing an Indian headdress on a cold Camber Sands beach - the image that launched Moss’s career.

Day began her work in the fashion industry by modelling herself, but at 5ft 6in, she was considered too short for the catwalk and ended up concentrating on catalogue work. Whilst working abroad in Japan Day met Mark Szaszy, her partner of 25 years. She taught herself how to use Szaszy’s camera in her spare time and, when the couple later settled in Milan, began photographing other models. Day shot her subjects sitting in their pyjamas, with no make-up on or with bags under their eyes. She said that she felt that such images ‘had life’ and that they weren’t ‘bland, or fake or covered in makeup.’

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Revisiting the Fat vs. Thin Debate

Weight and clothing size seem to be issues that we cannot get away from, both here on Zelda Lily and in reality. Looking back through recent posts — and reading the intelligent and well thought-out comments provided by you — gives a lot of food for thought, but very few hard and fast conclusions.

The sad truth is that, wherever on the spectrum she falls, almost every woman struggles with her weight. The spectrum extremes are morbidly obese through anorexic; both are medical terms since these two deadly conditions have detrimental effects that should be avoided at all costs.

Thankfully, most women fall elsewhere on the spectrum. It’s a good thing, too, since being too far over on either end of the weight loss spectrum puts you at serious risk for a variety of dangerous medical conditions, and judgement from peers, both of which can result in ill effects for the person in question, like it or not.

Looking at this longtime debate from a feminist standpoint isn’t always easy. You don’t want to say, “Go sit on the couch watching TV and eating bonbons all day if that’s your prerogative,” and yet it is impossible to condone the fat-shaming that goes on in virtually all aspects of the media.

Last spring, for example, there was something of a blow-up between Lane Bryant and Victoria’s Secret. Lane Bryant, a plus-size clothing store (although they regularly use models that barely meet the “plus-size” threshold, perpetuating the idealism of the women selling their clothes, albeit on a larger scale), released an ad for a new bra that was refused by several news networks … news networks that were all too happy to air ads from Victoria’s Secret.

From Lane Bryant vs. Victoria’s Secret: No Winner:

Victoria’s Secret models are ridiculously skinny, and the message sent out by the company’s ads, shows, and catalogues is that this is how normal women should strive to look. It’s sickening! And the fact that networks are willing to allow Victoria’s Secret ads on the air but not Lane Bryant’s lingerie offerings is a completely unacceptable double standard.

The reason that this lingerie feud was declared a draw is because normal-sized, healthy women are by and large (haha) ignored. As numerous wise commenters pointed out, you can be a small clothing size but need a bigger bra size that isn’t targeted by Victoria’s Secret. You can be technically plus-sized but don’t look it, so you’re treated rudely by salespeople at both Lane Bryant and Abercrombie and Fitch.

Family-friendly retailer (and creator of a large portion of my wardrobe when I was in high school) The Gap is also playing a dangerous game with the recent ad tagline “Put some pants on, because we can’t all look good in shorts.”

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Why Was the World’s Most Famous Plus-Sized Model Photoshopped to Look Skinny?

Over the past couple of years, Crystal Renn has revolutionized the world of plus-sized modeling. She is perhaps one of the first big “names” in the plus-sized industry, due to her her appearances in a number of major fashion magazines (Harper’s Bazaar, Vogue, Elle) and by walking some  runways for top designers like Jean-Paul Gaultier and Karl Lagerfeld. Renn also released her first book, Hungry, in which she detailed her struggles as a “straight-sized” model, her battles with anorexia and her decision to venture into the world of “plus sizes,” famously gaining seventy pounds and preaching self-acceptance at any size along the way.

Renn’s message and image seem to have struck a chord in North America, especially when plus-sized women and plus-sized brands are still having a hard time reaching the mainstream.

So when pictures were released this past week from a “Fashion for Passion” campaign of Renn looking decidedly waif-like, even emaciated, many of her fans were worried that the model had returned to the world of straight sizes, and was betraying her declaration that she was happier at her higher weight.

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